The Plum Rain: A Guide to Japan's Rainy Season Travel

TL;DR: Visiting Japan during the June and July rainy season (Tsuyu) is an effective strategy for avoiding overtourism while enjoying cool, fresh weather. You can experience blooming hydrangeas (Ajisai), misty mountain views, and ancient temples free from crowds. By packing smart with a waterproof jacket, sandals, and a few 100-yen Daiso items, you can comfortably explore the country before the summer heat arrives.

They say do not go to Japan in June or July. If you look at standard travel advice, you will often see people warning you to avoid these months at all costs. While everyone else is staying indoors or canceling their carefully laid plans, I am here to share a different perspective: Tsuyu, which is Japan’s rainy season, is actually an excellent time to visit. If you are traveling through Japan right now, or planning a future trip, you might be tempted to avoid the wet weather. But hear me out. Stop avoiding the rain and prepare for it. This is a practical way to see Japan the way it was meant to be experienced, far away from the heavy crowds and the high temperatures that follow later in the year.

A Strategy for Avoiding Overtourism

When you travel during the plum rain, you experience a version of the country that feels entirely exclusive to you. The atmosphere transforms into something quiet and moody. Imagine wandering through ancient, moss-covered temples, gazing out at misty mountain views, or walking down glowing neon streets that reflect clearly in the puddles. It genuinely feels like living inside a Studio Ghibli film, and the benefit is that you get these cinematic moments completely to yourself.

Right now, the weather is actually cool, fresh, and suitable for walking. This is a stark contrast to the summer heat that hits later in most of Japan. Once that intense summer heat arrives, exploring on foot becomes exhausting. But during Tsuyu, the air is refreshing, making it a comfortable climate for long days of exploration.

But here is the main advantage: once it starts to drizzle, the crowds completely empty out. Overtourism is a major concern for many travelers trying to navigate the country's most famous sights, but the rain naturally filters out the large tour groups and casual sightseers. Trust me, this is the least crowded I have ever seen East Japan. You can skip the overtourism entirely just by being willing to step out into the drizzle with a waterproof jacket and some sandals.

The Floral Landscape: Ajisai Season

For me, the rainy hydrangea season is a tie with the famous sakura (cherry blossom) season. While millions of people travel to the country for the spring blossoms, the standout feature right now is the Ajisai, or hydrangeas. The colors are vibrant, standing out clearly against the moody grey skies.

Because the drizzle empties the crowds, you get to experience some of the most famous floral destinations without the chaos. You can visit the ancient temples in Kamakura to see the blooms framing the historic architecture, and you will find minimal crowds even on weekends. Similarly, you can witness three million neon flowers in Shizuoka, completely undisturbed by the usual groups of tourists. It is a peaceful, vibrant experience that rivals any spring cherry blossom viewing.

The Science of the Blooms

A notable fact about these blooms is that their colors actually change based on the acidity of the soil they are planted in. This creates a natural mosaic across the country.

• Acidic Soil: When the soil is highly acidic, it creates those deep, rich blues and purples that stand out in the rain.
• Alkaline Soil: When the soil is alkaline, it makes the hydrangeas turn a bright, vivid pink.

Regional Weather Patterns: Where to Go

The rain behaves differently depending on exactly where you are in the country. Understanding these regional differences is crucial for planning your daily itinerary and knowing exactly what kind of weather to expect when you step outside.

Tokyo and Eastern Japan

If you are spending your time in the capital or the surrounding eastern regions, you should expect that steady, moody, cinematic grey drizzle. It is an atmospheric rain that complements the glowing neon streets of the city. This is suitable weather for wandering through the metropolis, as the constant light rain keeps the large crowds at bay and creates clear reflections on the pavement.

Kyoto and Western Japan

The weather here behaves quite differently than in the east. If you are heading to Kyoto or other parts of Western Japan, expect intense, tropical-style downpours. The silver lining to this weather pattern is that these heavy rains tend to clear up quickly. You can take shelter during the downpour, and soon enough, you will be able to step back out into freshly washed streets to continue your sightseeing.

Hokkaido: A Northern Alternative

If you decide that you simply do not want to deal with the rain at all, this northern island is a reliable alternative. Hokkaido does not actually have a Tsuyu season. The weather front that brings the plum rain to the rest of the country dissolves completely before it ever reaches them. If you want to avoid the rain entirely while still enjoying the cool, fresh weather of early summer, booking a flight up north to Hokkaido is your best bet.

A Practical Survival Checklist

To travel during the plum rain and navigate the season comfortably, you need to be prepared. While all you fundamentally need is a waterproof jacket and some sandals to skip the overtourism, there are a few local items and shopping strategies that will make your trip much more comfortable.

Visit Daiso First

Skip the expensive convenience store gear and head straight to Daiso. They have practical 100-yen items that will help keep you dry without breaking the bank.

• Microfiber-lined umbrella pouches: These are highly useful. You can slide your wet umbrella into the pouch so it does not drip all over you, the floor, or other passengers when you are riding the train.
• Compact ponchos: These are easy to throw in your day bag and pull out the second the cinematic grey drizzle starts.
• Slip-on waterproof shoe covers: If you did not pack sandals and want to wear your regular shoes, these covers are practical for protecting your footwear from the puddles.

The Clear Umbrella Warning

It is tempting to just buy one of the ubiquitous 500-yen clear umbrellas from a convenience store. Everyone buys the exact same ones because they are cheap and readily available. The problem is that because they all look identical, yours will inevitably get accidentally taken from a restaurant umbrella stand while you are inside eating. Instead of spending money replacing clear umbrellas every few days, invest in a unique, sturdy folding umbrella that you can easily identify and keep with you at all times.

Bousui Supuree (防水スプレー)

This translates to waterproof spray, and it is a highly recommended item if you are traveling during Tsuyu. Grab a can of this waterproof spray from any convenience store or drugstore. Before you head out for the day to explore the moss-covered temples or the neon streets, thoroughly douse your canvas shoes with the spray. It will provide a crucial layer of protection against the endless drizzle and the tropical downpours.

Traveling During the Rain

Do not let the forecast deter you from booking a trip in June or July. The rainy season offers a unique side of the country that most tourists miss out on because they prefer to avoid getting wet. Grab your waterproof gear, prepare for the moody atmosphere, and enjoy having the sights, from Kamakura to Shizuoka, all to yourself.

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